How to Finish a Live Edge Wood Slab for Rustic Furniture
The unique natural look of live edge wood is one of the trendier styles for those seeking one-of-a-kind rustic furniture.
What Is Live Edge Wood?
Live edge wood is a type of wood characterized by its unfinished, natural edges. Live edge wood slabs maintain a piece of wood’s raw, rustic characteristics, often containing visible knots, grain, and burrs or burls. Since the edges remain unchanged from the tree the wood is cut from, no two pieces of live edge furniture are exactly alike. The natural beauty of live edge pieces makes this type of wood a popular design element in rustic and mid-century decor. Woodworkers and interior designers often use live edge wood for coffee table tops, dining table tops, countertops, bar tops, headboards, cutting boards, kitchen islands, shelving, end tables, desks, and benches.
How to Finish a Live Edge Wood Slab
If you purchase an unfinished live edge slab of wood, you’ll need to know how to properly finish the slab before using it for your DIY woodworking project.
Remove the bark and sand the wood. Before sanding, use a chisel to peel off the bark section by section, making sure to work along the edges of your slab so you don’t gouge the surface. Next, sand your wood slab using a portable belt sander or sandpaper, starting with 120-grit sandpaper and working your way up to 220-grit.
Bridge splits in the wood with butterfly keys. Also known as bowtie joints or dutchman joints, butterfly keys are small blocks of wood you can inlay into the slab’s face to stabilize cracks and gaps. Use a router and chisel to create a pocket in the slab that fits the butterfly key, then secure the key in place with a clear epoxy. Once the epoxy dries, sand the butterfly key until smooth.
Fill any holes in the slab. This requires a two-part epoxy, but first it’s wise to test the color of your finish and epoxy to make sure they match. Apply some test finish to the bottom of the slab so you can see the final color of your piece. Once the finish dries, test a small amount of epoxy.
If the epoxy doesn’t match, you’ll need to tint the epoxy with an additive to achieve the proper color. As your epoxy is mixed, slowly pour it into any holes in the slab. A slow pour lets the epoxy gradually seep into the void, preventing air bubbles.
If a hole runs completely through to the other side of the slab, use masking tape or plumber’s putty on the underside of the hole to stop the epoxy from leaking out. You’ll be sanding the wood slab again before the piece is completed, so don’t fret if you spill a little epoxy onto the slab.
Finish and seal the slab. Once the epoxy is completely dry, sand the slab one more time and vacuum your entire workspace to avoid trapping stray dust in your finishing coat. For a simple oil finish, use a sponge brush to apply three coats of polyurethane, and sand with 500-grit sandpaper after each coat dries.
Then, wipe the slab surface down with mineral spirits and wet-sand the slab with a 2000-grit sanding pad. Alternatively, for a glossier finish, instead apply three coats of shellac and sand with 400-grit sandpaper after each coat dries.
Finish the piece off with a spray of clear lacquer. Before you use the slab, wait for the finish to completely cure.
